Japan’s sushi rolls under threat from climate change


The small city of Futtsu, near the mouth of Tokyo Bay, has been farming nori — the skinny sheets of seaweed utilized in Japanese delicacies to wrap rice balls and make sushi rolls — for hundreds of years. Five years in the past, the seaweed started to vanish.

What have been as soon as lengthy and luxuriant strands come out of the water skinny, straggly and typically discoloured. “The conditions are really tough,” mentioned Satoshi Koizumi, head of the native fishing co-operative. “People are giving up.”

In 2015, the co-operative had greater than 100 members farming seaweed within the bay; final yr there have been solely 73.

The troubles in Futtsu are a part of a nationwide decline in nori manufacturing, which final yr fell to its lowest stage since 1972, pushing up costs and threatening a cherished staple of the Japanese weight loss program. The disruption gives an early trace of how environmental change will have an effect on meals manufacturing, forcing longstanding industries to adapt.

The issues are two-fold: warming seas and never sufficient air pollution. Climate change has led to a major rise in water temperatures round Japan in current many years. “We don’t know the causes for sure but I think the biggest factor here is global warming,” mentioned Mr Koizumi.

At the identical time, nonetheless, laws to wash up Japan’s rivers have led to a decline within the run-off of agricultural wastes and fertilisers into the ocean — stripping the waters of vitamins that used to assist the seaweed develop.

Traders examine the standard of seaweed throughout a Futtsu public sale © Getty

Nori is especially delicate to climate change as a result of it grows within the winter, mentioned Kyosuke Niwa, a biologist on the Tokyo University of Marine Science. The most generally cultivated species originated within the north of Japan and its rising season doesn’t begin till the water temperature drops to 23°C.

“Recently, the sea temperature has been rising because of global warming, and there are fewer episodes when the water temperature drops,” he mentioned. “Either the timing of a drop to 23 degrees is later or there isn’t an episode when it drops that low. That makes it hard to cultivate nori.”

Rising temperatures delay the beginning of the rising season from early October to late October and even November. But even when the crop begins off properly, some farmers are struggling on the different finish of the season. Their maturing seaweed is usually pale and brown, which means will probably be tasteless and missing in vitamins.

A graphic with no description

“Episodes of discolouration have been becoming more frequent and if it’s discoloured, we can’t sell it,” mentioned Hiroaki Ebisumoto of the Akashiura fishing co-operative, which grows nori in Japan’s inland sea, the waters between the islands of Honshu and Shikoku.

“It became tougher about 20 years ago. The regulations on phosphorus and nitrogen came in at pretty much the same time,” he mentioned. Clean water requirements have lowered blooms of algae, which used to kill fish, however except there may be winter rain to scrub vitamins into the ocean, then the nori loses its color.

Nori farmers are demanding a change within the guidelines to stabilise the extent of phosphorus and nitrogen within the ocean, as a substitute of minimising it. Mr Ebisumoto and his fishermen even volunteer to muck out dams and ponds within the mountains, to scrub extra vitamins out to sea.

Mr Ebisumoto acknowledged that climate change is enjoying a job however mentioned fishermen can not do a lot about it. “We can’t change the water temperature by raising our voices. The one thing we may be able to change is how the country handles its sewerage,” he mentioned.

Sign up right here to the brand new podcast from Gideon Rachman, the FT’s chief international affairs columnist, and pay attention to his conversations with the decision-makers and thinkers from everywhere in the globe who’re shaping world affairs

Shifting manufacturing to colder, extra northerly waters will not be a sensible choice, mentioned Mr Niwa. For one factor, solely shallow, sheltered bays are appropriate for rising nori within the stormy winter months, and there are few of these north of Tokyo.

It additionally takes giant capital funding to farm nori. The Akashiura co-operative has a number of multimillion-dollar drying strains, purchased by small teams of members banding collectively, which flip the strands of seaweed into compact sheets. They stand idle for a lot of the yr after which work frantic 24-hour days throughout the harvest in spring.

The greatest hope, mentioned Mr Niwa, is selective breeding. “There are different species of seaweed that are well adapted to warmer water. Those species normally don’t grow very long but we’re working to breed them for cultivation,” he mentioned.

For Japan’s food-obsessed public, the options are unappealing. There has been a surge in imports of nori from Korea. That, for now, has helped to fend off the last word comfort retailer indignity: the nori-less rice ball, wrapped solely in plastic.


Please enter your comment!
Please enter your name here